Portugal 2014

Everything has an end:-(

And so has my journey! Started off from Rosie at around 10 this morning, cloudy but no rain. The weather got better and better until it suddenly got really bad:-( Heavy rain the last 300 k to Stockholm. Had a few stops, to get coffee and to get warm. Arrived at home just after 16.00.

Below is a map that show how I drove, apart from the first day from Tavira to Evora

Portugal 2014

And now finally, a clip from my journey to Puttgarden and then a short clip from Väröbacka in Sweden. At the end some statistics for this trip. And the music was chosen only for it’s title, nothing else:-)

Steninge and Varberg

So, finally back in Sweden! Come to Helsingborg just after 12.00. But let’s go back and start from the beginning of the day.Started early from the hotel, and made it to the ferry that leaves 8.45. When I got up on deck, somebody called my name! To my surprise, Anita Lossman and her husband was on the same ferry. We used to work together, but Anita retired a couple of years ago. They were on their annual tour to Germany for shopping. From Rödby I had a two hours drive to Helsingör, and the final ferry to get to Sweden. Didn’t meet anyone I knew on the last ferry though:-)

In less than an hour, I came to Steninge and my comrade-in-arms Björn.

Comrades-in-arms

After a lunch at the local restaurant I was on my way again up to Väröbacka, just outside of Varberg. For the first time during this trip, it started to rain. However, I managed to drive away from the rain and made it to Väröbacka after 45 minutes. It was really nice to meet Rosie again, most likely more than 10 years since we met. Later on Monica came over as well and together with Julia (Rosie’s daughter) we had dinner and talked all night.

Monica, Julia & Rosie

Now it’s Monday morning, and judging from the weather forecast, I better get on the road quite soon. Tonight I’ll be back in Stockholm, and most likely the second and last film clip will be on display on this blogg later tonight:-)

And now in Pronstorf

And now I’m very close to the ferry that will take me to Rödby in Denmark. Today I drove some 550 k from Frankfurt to this really nice hotel in the countryside. When I had my dinner, I started to wonder if I already made it to Denmark. Seems like most of the guests are Danes that spend a weekend in Germany playing golf. The hotel is nice, and I got a special treatment for my bike. They parked it in a garage that they will lock over night. Not that I fear that someone will come and steal it here in the middle of nowhere, but it was a nice gesture. The drive today was quite easy, good temperature and partly sunny. Tomorrow I will take the ferry quite early, and then drive to Helsingör in Denmark, and then pass by Steninge and pay Björn a visit. Björn is an old friend from Malmö who has the good taste of also driving a BMW R1200GS. Then I will continue to Varberg, and hopefully I will be able to crash in with some friends living there. Then Monday I will take the last leg of my trip, via Jönköping to Stockholm.

For bikers, if you are in the area of Frankfurt, go to the Taunus area! The roads there are excellent for motorcycle driving, and on top (Feldberg) you normally will find lots of motorcycle friends.

Main building Hotel-Restaurant Strengliner Mühle

"My" house at the Hotel-Restaurant Strengliner Mühle

Made it to Frankfurt

What seemed like a pretty easy trip became one of the longest days! Started at eight in the morning, a rather cold morning (+6 C). After a couple of hours drive it was till not more than +10C, and my hands where getting really cold. So I had to stop and mount the cables etc for the heating gloves, and I could ride off again. My first stop was Touratech in Mömlingen, southeast of Frankfurt. I’m not sure that the GPS really took the quickest road, because I spent the last 1 1/2 hour on very small roads before getting to Mömlingen. But I’m glad the GPS took me there, because once again the scenery was really lovely. Hilly landscape and lovely German villages. At 16.00 hours I was at the Touratech shop. A very friendly guy helping out, and they had everything I wanted in stock. But he was a bit skeptic that I should try and bring the gear on the bike. Mounting the top crash bar would take two hours so they didn’t have time enough to do it. But when we unpacked everything, the top crash bars could go into my bag and the cylinder crash bar they had time to mount, as well as mounting the extra fuel canister. When the time came to pay, none of my credit card worked! It was most likely a technical problem with the POS, but never the less, what to do? Not sure if I have an honest face or what, but the Touratech guy said that he thought that I seemed like an honest person. So he gave me their IBAN account number, and I could send the money when I got home!!

One hour later I was back at the lovely B&B in Schlossborn, where the landlord and the landlady were waiting for me. As always, wonderful food and excellent beer and wine, but a very tired motorcyclist that started to fall asleep just after midnight! I will continue today up north, have not decided yet on how far I should go. Either stop in the northern part of Germany, or try to make it all the way to Sweden.

Next stop – Sainte-Marie-la-Blanche

So, yet another day with telephone meetings. However, will leave from here at 13.00 hours and have booked a room in the village of Sainte-Marie-la-Blance. It’s located some 450 k northeast from here. Then on Friday, I plan to go to Mömlingen in Germany and visit the Touratech shop there. I will buy some crash protection for the cylinders and the tank. Then off to the excellent B&B in Schlossborn just outside of Frankfurt. One comment though on driving in France. On my way down I drove a bit more north in France, but I would recommend driving more south as I’m doing right now. Lovely landscape and you enjoy the scenery even when your are driving on a motorway. Currently I’m following the E70 northbound.

Had lunch at the hotel before I left just after 14.00 hours. A 450 k trip ahead of me. It wasn’t too long before the temperature started dropping, and soon it was just above 10 degrees. Had to stop, get a coffee and try to find some worm clothes to put on. One stop for a telephone meeting, but finally at a quarter to eight I arrived at the hotel. Once again a fine hotel, and a good restaurant. Not anything near the previous hotel, but still good. Early start tomorrow (no work I hope:-)), cover 550 k to Mömligen and then hopefully arrive at the B&B in a decent time to get a drink before dinner.

Hotel Relais Sainte Marie

Ussac

Early bird this morning, a quick drive (450k) to Ussac in France! A nice French country hotel is my accommodation this time. But unfortunately, working all afternoon and evening:-(

But just after 19.00 I got off work, and had time to take a walk in the village before dinner. I was amazed!! How can a whole village be so perfect? Every house, every flower pot, every wall, every everything was so well taken care of and the whole village had the same style. The mayor of the village must be a powerful person:-) Below are some pictures. After the quick walk, I had dinner, and it was as good as everything else here. A good local wine, based on Cabernet franc and Merlot, fois gras au canard, entrecote with a pepper sauce and finally a coffee. I’m also impressed by my self, managed to order everything in french, got the bill on the room, and even asked when breakfast was served (and understood the answer:-)) Soon some rest before yet another working day starts at 08.00. Not sure how to plan tomorrow, might be stuck here for a while.

So if you are in the neighborhood, stop by Ussac (some 150 k east-north-east from Bordeaux). If you need a place to sleep, book a room at Auberge Saint Jean and if you are hungry, make sure you have a dinner there as well! On the other hand, it might be hard to find another restaurant in this small village.

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For other bikers

So, time for my review on driving along the river Douro. The road was good, no gravels in the bends and so on. I guess the usage for normal cyclist is a reason for the road to be looked after. If you drive, you should follow the road N108 all the time. Not easy to follow (had to take some detours). There are a LOT of bends, and after some 100 k you are really looking forward to drive on a straight road. It’s very beautiful in this area of Portugal, and the people are so very friendly, so I would really recommend a drive here. But the negative side is that it’s not easy to get a good view of the river. It was quite hard to find spots where I could take pictures, and normally you don’t see the river, since there are houses or trees hindering the view. So my view is that if you are in the neighborhood, you should definitely go there. But I wouldn’t take a long detour to drive here. Below is a short movie from my drive, and as usual all the apologies available for the lousy editing. Have no real editing tool on my laptop.

Finally, found a good motorcycle dealer in San Sebastian. My cheek pad in my helmet is broken, and I got this store recommended by the manufacture of the helmet (NZI, Spanish helmet). Unfortunately, they didn’t have any spare parts, but they were very helpful. Since my helmet got some years, I might consider buying a new one here, and they had a fair amount of different helmets and brands. The company name is Batanero and is located on Miguel Imaz, 3 y 5 (downtown San Sebastian).

Map Douro

Porto – San Sebastian

After a quick breakfast I headed of towards Rio Douro. But I was not alone. Seems like half the population of Portugal was out bicycling on the same road. But after a while, I had passed a majority of the cyclists. As expected, it was a wonderful scenery, and it got better the further you went. And after some 50 kilometers, you started seeing wine yards, where the grapes for the Port are growing. Harvest in September (that I learned yesterday at Offlays:-)). At around noon I started getting hungry, and I stopped in a small village where there was a gas station and something that resembled a bar. As always down here, there are loads of locals sitting around arguing, drinking coffee and looking at everyone passing by. I managed to order a coffee and a sandwich. The owner wrote down the sum to pay (€ 2,05). Since I only had € 20 bills, I showed that I should go to the bike and get some coins. I got five meters when I was stopped by another guest. The owner was calling be back, and telling me that the coffee and sandwich was for free, with compliments from the owner. When would that happened in Sweden? Conclusion, the Portuguese are extremely friendly and helpful, everywhere I have been they have done more that what you would expect!

Then I set off towards San Sebastian, since I would like to stay in one place when I have to work Monday to Wednesday. It was a rather long trip, 780 kilometers from when I was done with Rio Douro. But the worst part was that the temperature dropped quite quick. It went down to 10-11 degrees, and I was sure not dressed for that! So I had to stop and put on more clothes. When I came close to Vila Real the landscape was amazing. Looked more like something from the Lord of the Rings, close to Mordor. Big rocks just poured out ind big piles and nothing growing. But I was on 1.300 above sea level, so no wonder. But the best was definitely when I came close to San Sebastian, high mountains and deep valleys. I managed to get a room at a hotel situated on top av a hill overlooking San Sebastian and the Atlantic ocean. The view was spectacular, hope to take some pictures tomorrow. But unfortunately, next couple of days will only consist of work:-(

And finally, seems like I lost my Eurocard, so now I’ll have to survive on two cards!

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As expected

Arrived in Porto! I was not allowed to check in before I had a glass of red port! I think I can like this city, and so would Lena and Mia. Now off to do the Grand Tour of Porto.

After a quick change of clothes, I went out in Porto. It was a 15 minutes walk to the city centre. Everthing seems to be located by the river Douro. Walked around the city, before I took myself over the bridge to the Port Wine side. Makes you wonder if the english word port (left side on a boat) comes from Porto. Took a guided tour at Offleys, and ended up with a cheese and wine tasting. Was ok, but since I’m not a fan of sweet wine it could never reach high grades. Walked back home, and plan to visit a local restaurant in the neighborhood once I’ve had a five minutes power nap. Tomorrow is hopefully going to be one o the best days on this trip. Where I will end up tomorrow, I really don’t know

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Wine and cheese tasting at Offleys

High up

Offley

North side of Porto, by the river

Evora

Made it to Evora. More info to come later, now dinner!

So, time to sum up the day! Made it in Frankfurt (to get to my connecting flight), even though my flight from Stockholm was late. Arrived in Faro, taxi to Tavira and then picked up the bike. Had a light meal with Monica & Claes before I left Tavira. Put the GPS on “avoid motorways”, and I sure did! Most of the 230 kilometers I drove from Tavira to Evora was on small and narrow roads, with lovely scenery. It was really hot as well, around 30 degrees. But I really enjoyed it! At around 9 I arrived in Evora, and the hotel was located somewhere in the old town. The old town contains of very narrow and steep roads with cobble stones. First time I didn’t see the hotel and had to spend 15 minutes getting back. It’s not an exclusive or big hotel (10 rooms), but it has wifi, parking and free breakfast for the price of € 25:-). I quickly ran out to a small restaurant nearby. They were about to close, but it was no problem serving me a dinner. Had a nice local pork dish with two beers and coffee after. Total sum for dinner, € 6,50. I’m not going to keep on commenting on prices, but I’m really surprised on how cheap everything is when you get outside of the touristic places. To sum up, a great driving day and very nice and helpful people in Evora. Below you will find some pictures from my trip today. Unfortunately, my new camera did not have the right angle on my helmet, so I’ve got 3 hours of video overlooking my GPS and my handlebars:-)

North of Tavira

Landscape

Evora Roman remainings in Evora Evora DSC_0126 Hotel entrance in Evora The bike! Nice road

Grey

Waiting for my flight in a grey, damp and cold Stockholm! Temperature at destination is 27 degrees.

The plan for the day is first of course to arrive in Faro/Tavira. Then I will pick up my bike and head off towards Evora some 200 kilometers north of Tavira. Tomorrow I’m heading towards Porto.

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All prepared

Soon on my way back home again! Everything is packed and the bike is ready to be back on the road again on the 9th of May. I plan to get going on the same day as I arrive, in order to cover some mileage on my first day. Below are some pictures from the beach just outside of Tavira

The bridge to the beach island

For the lazy, you can take the train to the beach

Claes & Monica

A very very long beach

Left anchors from the time when tuna fishing was an industri in Tavira

Delayed trip:-(

Unfortunately, I have to cancel my trip back home to Sweden. My services are needed at work for the next couple of weeks, and therefore I have to postpone my trip until the 9th of May. However, I will fly down this coming weekend to Portugal to prepare everything so that I’m ready to leave on the 10th of May.

Soon on my way again

Unless the pilots at Lufthansa decides to go on strike on the 11th of April, I will land in Faro at 15:15. Claes & Monica have offered to pick me up and also invite me to dinner on Friday night. Who could refuse an offer like that? On Saturday I’ll pick up my bike, fix everything that is needed for the trip and then head off early Sunday morning. I’m aiming to go to Porto the first day, and then on Monday drive by the River Doro. Hopefully I will be able to visit San Sebastian and then I drive up along the Atlantic coast. I need to be in Hamburg on the 19th of April, in order to complete my planned purchases of equipment for my bike. Then hopefully I will be back in Stockholm on the 21st of April.

Last report

So this will be my final report from my trip. I will leave from here on Monday, and will spend the weekend as a tourist in Tavira. Thought I’d drive around a bit, but it seems like the bad weather is following me everywhere. But today I took a quick tour, checked out the garage where my bike will be resting until April and then I went down to Cabanas (pictures below) and had a coffee. Soon out to grab some lunch.

Hope you enjoyed this travel diary, be in touch in April again! There might be a slightly better edited movie coming out, but that will not be until I’m home again!

Pelle

What can I say, it was a really tough day

Woke up at 4 o’clock this morning, and finally went up at 6. Unfortunately the reception didn’t open until 8:-( But I started packing and took some time to mount the GoPro camera in a new place on the bike. It’s a great camera, but it catches too much wind sitting on top of the helmet. So if there is a risk of driving on motorways, it’s a no-no. But as the weather turned out to be, there was no point attaching it anyway. At 8 sharp I payed my bill and took of. Sunrise seems to be almost the same as back home, sunset however is a lot later this time of the year. So it was dark when I left. All rain equipment on from start, since it was pouring down. And all of this without having a breakfast! It turned out to be the worst day of all. Foggy, raining and from time to time rather windy. In my dreams I would drive down from Salamanca to what I thought was the mainland, but suddenly I saw on the GPS that I was above 1.00o meters. The peek of the day was at 1.191 meter. I had a quick breakfast at around 10:30 (I’m getting the Spanish habits) and then continued. I guess there was some really nice scenery beside the road, but all I could see was gray mist. Gradually it started getting warmer, and when the temperature was at 18 degrees, my six layers of clothes started to feel a bit uncomfortable. After my lunch (at 15:30!!) I changed to summer gloves and took off some layers. I reached Tavira at 16:30 realizing that Portugal is living by GMT not CET. Now I understood why the GPS was so optimistic about my arrival time.

The hotel is lovely, and it’s not very crowded. Got a parking spot in the garage for free, the girl in the reception asked me not to tell anyone. They charge € 7.50 per day normally, but she gave it away for free when I asked how they could charge the same for a motorbike as for a car. Hopefully (she will check) they are able to store my luggage at the hotel until I come back on the 11th of April. There is even hope they can send my motorcycle clothes to the cleaner while I’m gone.

Now I’m only waiting for the clock to be 19 ish so I can go out and get myself a dinner (got a list of good restaurants from Claes & Monica).

No pictures and no film today, bringing the cameras out in this weather would have ruined them!

Finally Algarve

Checked in at the hotel, and I have now reached my destination. More to come once I get free internet access

Summary of the day

Amazing, I didn’t realize that the mainland in Spain was on such high altitude. I was almost on 1.000 meters above sea level, and I ended up at 824 meters in Salamanca. It was probably the worst day during the trip. Extremely windy and raining and rather cold. But the scenery was as always very nice. I’m surprised, didn’t know that Spain is like a terrace. I have already described my arrival to Salamanca. After a quick shower I went out for a dinner. Ended up in a Spanish bar where they also served dinner. I arrived at 18:30 ish and when I asked for the  menu the waiter asked the boss if it was ok. Luckily it was! I’m totally out of sync with the Spaniards. This morning when I left breakfast, they where strolling home from celebrating New Years eve. And so when I ate my dinner, all others, and I mean ALL others had their afternoon coffee. Regardless, I love the prices. I payed € 10 for a two course dinner with half a bottle of wine. With a cup of coffee and yet another class of wine I had to pay € 12 🙂.

Tomorrow I’m aiming for Tavira, it’s a 600 kilometers drive, and the weather forecast says rain:-). So it might be a challenge. The hotel is booked (thanks to Claes & Monika) and I hope to make it. However, it must be an early start tomorrow morning.

Some statistics so far. I have traveled 2476 kilometers since I left Kiel in Germany, I have been driving for 28 hours, I have been having 8 hours of breaks, average driving speed is 83 kilometers/hour and including breaks average speed is 65 km/h. And I’m enjoying every minute of it, that’s the most important information:-)

 

In Salamanca

Just a quick update. Made it to Salamanca, seems like a nice town. The police stopped next to me and asked where I came from. And then they escorted me to the hotel, with the blue lights on:-). Then a danish guy came up, was so pleased to meet somebody from the Nordics. He also explained that Salamanca is one of the coldest towns in Spain, due to the altitude (close to 900 m above sea level). Excellent hostel, even got a indoor parking for my motorbike.

Wind and fog

250 k from Salamanca. Very windy on this altitude (950 m). Short break for lunch

And now some media

Had a quick tour in the old town (some pictures below). Managed to get a glass of red wine, even though I completely forgotten the Spanish words for red wine (vino tinto). Thanks Macen! Everything was however closed (story of my trip). But I never understood when shops are open i Spain, or when the Spaniards work (not much it seems). Not much chance of getting a table tonight from what I understand.

However, the trip to Pamplona was great. Cold but beautiful at start and then some fine motorways. Somewhere close to the border (I didn’t see any sign of me entering into Spain) I started climbing up towards Pamplona. But the best part was when the temperature went from 6 degrees to 16 degrees in just half an hours drive when I got close to the west coast. And on a motorbike you can feel that difference! The drive from the coast to Pamplona was great, but very windy sometimes. I really had a hard time to stay on the road. 

 

And here we are in Spain

Made it to Pamplona! Checked in at the hotel, and now out for a quick tour around the old town. Tradition here is to eat one grape every time the bells strikes (at midnight) so I better start looking for some grapes. If that doesn’t work, I guess drinking a sip of champagne or maybe cava every time would be almost the same:-) Temperature here is around 8 degrees, but before climbing up the Pyrenees I had amazing 16 degrees (at least for me that is amazing)!

Almost there

As expected, a cold morning. The girl in the reception had a hard time in the morning, getting the ice of the windshield of her car. But at 10ish the temperature was up to 2,5 centigrade and took off! It was a bit foggy at start, but soon the sun came through. But the temperature didn’t go higher, on the contrary. But it was a beautiful drive, but I had to be cautious. Some lovely scenery on the way though:

In the afternoon I started looking for a hotel, and I was once again hoping for a small hotel in village. Around five o’clock I found a perfect village, nice buildings, restaurants and shops. And according to the GPS one hotel as well. The hotel looked quite simple, with a small restaurant. But to my surprise, they where fully booked:-( So I had to continue and ended up in Angouleme, a rather big city. But it was impossible to find an hotel in Centre de ville. Once again, they all seemed to be closed. So I ended up in an Ibis hotel outside of town. A steak at the nearby “restaurant” and then back to the hotel room. I have some 400 kilometers tomorrow so I hope to start early. Below is a video from the trip today. My sincere apologies for the quality. It’s produced on my old PC with no real video editing software.

Now in France

After yet another magnificant breakfast at the B&B in Schlossborn I started my journey to France. Temperature has dropped a bit, and today it was between 2-5 degrees. Unfortunately, a lot of rain as well. In France I try to avoid pay roads and that got me through a number of small villages in the French countryside. Since my plan was to find accommodation in smaller villages this was a perfect plan, so I thought anyway. But it turned out that I couldn’t find any open hotel. I don’t know if they are closed on Sundays or just open in the summertime. So I had to make my way to a larger town and ended up in Troyes. I have now found out that Troyes is located in the Champagne area, and that explains the dessert I got today, Champagne cheese with cream!

The weather forecast doesn’t look that good, zero degrees until lunchtime, so it might be so that I have to hang around in Troyes for a while tomorrow. Otherwise, my plan is to drive in the direction of Bordeaux and on the last day of this year end up in Pamplona (hotel booked). But things might change depending on the weather:-(

The bike is working perfect, and my heated gloves and socks are absolutely great. I haven’t been cold once during the trip.

And now with some pictures of the excellent breakfast: DSC_0015 DSC_0019

First day of travel

So, at last I arrived in Kiel and could start my journey. When I went of the ferrie, I was immediately directed aside, and I thought that I would end up in customs:-(. But it turned out that they just wanted me to pass by all the cars that where waiting at the traffic light. After  a little more than an hour I reached Hamburg and the Touratech shop where I bought a tank bag. So far, the motorcycle on the picture is the only one I have seen so far on my trip. After Hamburg I went on towards Frankfurt. The temperature varied between 7 and 9 degrees and not a single drop of rain. However, roadwork slowed down the journey, and I arrived at 6.30 pm. As expected a wonderful dinner and a very good wine was waiting and a lot of talking. I have decided to stay here for one more night and leave for France on Sunday morning (less traffic).

Pretty good start

So, finally on my way. Took the flight from Stockholm to Gothenburg and then I went to Hovås and got my bike. Then just a short drive to the ferry. Got an excellent cabin with sea view.  A quick dinner and now I’m enjoying a sip of Bowmore and watching Sweden-Switzerland in the opening game of the junior ice hockey world championship. Tomorrow I will first go to Hamburg to buy  a tankbag and after that I will head towards Frankfurt. Hopefully I will be able to get all the way to Gunther and Nicole and pay them a visit and get a good night sleep. After Frankfurt I will drive towards France and leave the highways.

New year travel

So, yet another travel is forming. This time it will be a trip in wintertime down to Portugal. In order to avoid snow in Sweden, I have already driven the bike down to Gothenburg. On the 26th of December, I will take the ferry from Gothenburg down to Kiel in Germany. From there I will drive westbound, in order to get slightly higher temperature. Then down through France, down to Biarritz and the on to the Iberian peninsula and finally reach the town of Tavira in Portugal. I will park my bike there and take flight back home to Sweden on the 5th or 6th of January with a return flight on the 11th of April (close to Easter). I will spend some days travelling around in Spain and Portugal before I head up north again to bring the bike back home. I intend to use this blogg to send updates on my trip.

However, if the temperature is below zero in Germany after Christmas I will cancel the whole trip:-(

Portugal

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